A Harding's Night
HARDING'S | 32 E 21st St. (bet. Park Ave. & Broadway) | 212.600.2105 | hardingsnyc.com
veal
Loafing Off
...I treated myself to a meatloaf layered into tastes, textures, aromas, and depth, flavorful meats of various fattiness absorbing the aromatics of the ingredients inside it, served with a sturdy yet light side of potatoes for the bold notes of the tomato, vinegar, basil, and capers to stand on... [Full Post »]
Germanic Monday
...The sausage loaf had the texture of a refined thick slice of good bologna, and was flavored by a rich combination of spices. This was a great dais for the soft-fried egg and a hit a ground mustard, which together augmented the leberkäse's unctuousness and almost guilty amount of porkiness. The runny yolk of the egg, which I'm always a fan of, evenly integrated the texture dichotomies between the hot protein and the chilled finely chopped yet still toothsome potato salad.... [Full Post]
Elio's-Centric
...I had forgotten how the rest of the city—the world—kind of falls away when I'm at Elio's. The dishes were simple yet expertly executed, channelling many layers of "home cooking comfort". My veal was so tender that my butter knife sliced straight through it in one motion.... [Full Post]
Short and Sweet
...It was a very tasty and juicy cut of meat, nicely seasoned, slicing tenderly, and perfectly grizzled on its edges. A house-made chimichurri sauce brightened each feral and earthy bite with fresh herbal notes and peppery highlights.... [Full post]
Puttin' On The Schnitzel
...The textures were all close to spot on; the schnitzel was thin and crisp on the outside,with the veal on the inside being tender enough to easily cut and bite through. The shreds of cabbage were cool and crisp, and the nuggets of potato in salad were comfortably malleable between my tongue and the roof of my mouth.... [Full post]
Meatballs a La Carte
...The sauce is rich and deep with flavor without feeling heavy or overcoating the inside of your mouth. The cheese was gooey and non-obstructive,as it sometimes can be an other meatball heros, relying more on its casual yet almost rustic flavor than on the oversold visual of cartoonish "stringiness". The ground veal meatballs are nicely firm but not dense, and juicy enough to fall apart easily as each bite finishes as one singularly familiar and satisfying food idea... [Full post....]
